There are many ways to grow Shiitake. The 2 most popular ways tend to be the traditional way, on Oak logs, and the modern way, on blocks of sawdust. There are benefits and disadvantages to both.

Nearly all of the Shiitake that NCMMC grows/sells are grown the traditional way. Here is a brief outline of what is involved:

Tools / Items you should have:

High-speed drill ($60), drill-bit adapter ($35), drill-bit ($15), 2 plungers ($30 each), extension cord ($10), dedicated electric crock-pot with thermostat ($25), Solid work table ($?), Log labels ($?), Wax dauber ($10 per 500), Plastic spawn bucket with lid ($8), Sharpening file ($1), Cheese-wax ($125 per 55#), Gloves ($5), Goggles ($5), Horse hair paint brush ($2), bucket of roofing nails ($15), small hand saw ($10), Radio! ($?)

After the tree has been selected and cut into 3-4 foot lengths, remove as much dirt, moss and lichens as possible, then drill holes in a diamond pattern that span 4-8 inches apart along the length of the log and 2-4 inches apart across the width. The more holes, the faster the colonization, on an average log of 3-4 feet in length, and 4-6 inches in diameter, there should be about 40-50 holes, larger logs may take 150 holes. This is a tedious process but fairly easy once proper technique is employed. I recommend using a high-speed drill (10,000rpm+) instead of the average Black & Decker type drills which are generally only 800-1500 rpm and tend to burn up after heavy use. A proper high speed drill with the adapter and bit should run you about $100 +-. It will pay for itself on the first day. I usually drill 10 logs at a time. You do not need to drill the face-cut of the logs.

After the holes are drilled, you will begin inoculating. This is easy. You will need a special plunger tool ($15-$32) or you can hand stuff the hole (a real pain, but effective). Most plungers are set to deliver the precise amount spawn per hole and are usually equal to the diameter and depth of the drill bit. Plug each and every hole, including each scab, wound or damaged area with spawn. The spawn should not exceed the top of the hole; ideally it will be 1/16 of an inch below the bark level.

If using dowels, just insert the dowel, be sure to leave a bit of wiggle room around each side including the bottom of the dowel. Be sure it doesn’t surpass the bark.

After inserting spawn, wax each hole with hot cheese-wax or beeswax, not paraffin or mineral wax, as these contain high amounts of petro and would void any chances of organic status. Be sure that the logs are dry, wax won’t adhere to wet logs. The wax should be between 300-350 degrees for proper application. Be careful, wax has a flash-point of 450 degrees. Be sure to seal hole completely so no air or bugs will get in or out. Bugs like spawn and will eat every bit of it if given a chance. I usually seal each hole twice to ensure complete coverage. Be sure to wax all stubs, damaged areas, holes, and each end of the log.

After the log is drilled, inoculated, and waxed, PUT A TAG ON IT!!! These can be simple but make sure they will last. If using standard labels use a very permanent waterproof pen. The label should include the date and strain. Often after a year, the label will be hard to read, so you may have to reenter the info, if you lose track of the date and strain it will be harder to manage the logs in the coming years.

Once the log is finished, find a suitable location to let it colonize, this is known as the spawn run. It should take between 6 months and 2 years before it is ready to fruit, don’t rush the process as it will hurt future yields. Just sit back and wait, when the log fruit on its own, then it is ready to be put into production.